MountainBikeFAQ.com

January 27th, 2010

Underrated Mountain Bike Parts

Q: What are some underrated mountain bike parts?

A: Here is a list of six underrated, quality parts (and a bike) you may or may not know about.

6. Sunline XC-1 Stem – While Thomson receives all the buzz for being the best stem, there is an underrated competitor in the [amazon-product region="us" text="Sunline XC-1 stem" type="text"]B002AAAODQ[/amazon-product]. Sunline, who has been making quality motocross parts for many years, makes a lightweight, aluminum stem that can hang with anyone. In both black and a sexy dark grey, this stem adds some bling to anyone’s horse. +/- 6 degree rise and in 90, 100, or 110 mm length, it is sure to fit your XC needs.

5. Shimano SLX Cranks - Everyone likes Shimano cranks, no doubt, but the SLX series is truly an underrated crank. Available in both a three chainring (FC-M660) and a dual chainring (FC-M665) with bash guard, these attractive two-tone cranks are stiff, affordable, and offer steel pedal inserts.

4. GT Peace 9r – When looking for a nice, rigid, single-speed 29er, the Redline Monocog tends to be one of the most recommended bikes, and for good reason (I have one and LOVE it). However, an often overlooked, solid, and fun bike is GT Peace 9r. Performance Bike has them for 20% off all the time, and if you become a “team member” you can save yourself an additional 10%. Not a bad deal for such a solid bike.

3. Luv Handles – No, not your love handles, Clyde, Groovy Cycle Works Luv Handlebars. While the On One Mary handlebars receive many accolades, some people like the idea, just not that much sweep. Enter the custom made Luv Handlebars. Built of 4130 aircraft steel or 3/2.5 Haynes Titanium, these bars sport a gentle 4 degree rise and a 21.5 degree back sweep, meeting the natural anatomic position of your wrist and hands to allow for reduced stress on the supportive structures resulting in all day comfort and control.

2. BBG Bashguard/Chainring - You don’t know you need a bashguard until it is too late. I have these on all of my bikes and love them. Simple. Inexpensive. The BBG bash is lightweight, strong, and looks great. You simply cannot go wrong with one.

1. TomiCOGs - So, you want to try fixed gear on your mountain bike (you’re crazy)? Looking to use mtb hubs in that fixed gear? Tired of lockring issues? Enter the TomiCog. Get this bolt-on cog for your wheelset and get back to simplicity. These are laser cut, Type 304 stainless steel 1/2″ pitch chain drive bicycle cogs. They are cut to match a standard 6-bolt mtn bike disc rotor mount. Laser etched tooth count and logo, ground tooth bevel.

January 18th, 2010

What to Pack Before a Ride

Q: What should I pack before I go on a mountain bike ride?

A: What you pack for a ride depends on how long/far you will be going. What you will need to go around the block will differ from an all day ride. Following is a list of 15 items to consider before your next ride.

Water: This determines your “luggage” for the ride (Camelback or water bottle).
Flat repair: Patch kit for tubes, a patch for a ripped tire (a dollar bill can be used in a pinch), tire levers (2), a spare tube (keep in a sock to use as a rag and/or to drag across tubes for finding thorns), and a pump (hand or CO2).
Multitool
ID: driver’s license, insurance card and/or your sports id.
Mini kit: using an Altoids tin or an empty supplement/pill bottle (much better than a bag), fill it with the following items: SRAM master link (or two), spare chain (leftover from your sizing), super glue, spare shoe cleat screw (in a pinch a brake rotor bolt can be used if you have a torx with you), presta valve stem core, nut & cap.
Rubber gloves. Nothing like working on a greasy chain and then sticking your hands back into your high-dollar gloves. Some people prefer wipes (also work well for cleaning before patching a tube), or both.
Zip ties (all sizes)
Electrical tape and/or duct tape (MacGuyver would be so proud). Duct tape can also be used in a pinch for a tire repair.
Pen and paper
Headlamp: Frees your hands and can also be used as an emergency backup light.
Cell phone
First Aid/Emergency Kit
Money
Insect repellent (during the bug months).
Swiss Army Knife

January 14th, 2010

QR Seat Clamp vs. Bolt Seat Clamp

Q: Which seat clamp style is the best? Quick release (QR) style or bolt style?

A: There are pros and cons to both types of seat clamps.

Bolt Style Seat Clamps

Bolt style seat clamps are good for people who will be leaving their bike somewhere unattended, as it is simply a matter of undoing a QR and stealing your expensive Thomson seat post and Brooks saddle you have on your bike. $200 gone in the blink of an eye. Also torquing a bolt with a torque wrench is a handy feature to have, especially if you are running a carbon seat post. Weight weenies will also appreciate the lighter weight of a bolt style vs. a QR. Generally speaking bolt style clamps tend to be cheaper, making the penny pinchers happy as well.

Quick Release Seat Clamps

QR style seat clamps are especially good for people who do a lot of downhill, or have big drops so they can lower their seat prior to tackling. If you are the type that likes to switch up bikes, with riding buddies, for a loop or two, QR seat clamps make it a snap to adjust for each rider. Finally, for riders that like to switch up their seats and/or posts between street riding and trail riding, a QR style clamp is handy option to have.

January 12th, 2010

Essential Tools for Bike Repair

Q: What tools do I need for repairing my mountain bike?

A: There are basically three different types of bike owners, and therefore different tool needs based on of which type of owner you are.

Owners that do all of their own maintenance and repair “wrenches.”
Owners that take their bike to the LBS for all of their maintenance and repair needs.
Owners that do some work themselves, and take it to LBS for rest.

Before you get started, the first decision comes down to what to do with your bike while you are working on it. You can simply turn it upside down (free), put it in a home made stand (inexpensive), or put it in a [amazon-product region="us" text="quality bike stand" type="text"]B000Z2ZZXK[/amazon-product] (investment).

On the tool front, there are basically two philosophies for buying tools. You can buy a kit or buy your tools piece-by-piece. For those that don’t want to be bothered, or are brand loyal, a kit is a good way to go. Park Tools, the biggest name in bike tools, has an [amazon-product region="us" text="essential tool kit" type="text"]B000RPWFVK[/amazon-product] that will get you started with: 3, 4, 5, 6mm hex wrenches; tire levers; patch kit; straight blade screwdriver; and a small adjustable wrench all housed in a compact, ready-to-go tool wallet. However, most people have screwdrivers and an adjustable wrench already, so buying your own kit is a smart choice.

The first few things to get are tire levers, hex wrenches, cable/housing cutter, chain tool, and maybe a pedal wrench. As for tire levers, it is best not to over think them and to just buy them. Of course you get better leverage with the longer ones, so that is something to consider, but I have known people to just use their skewer as a lever (good tip to remember for on the trails).

Hex wrenches are a must for everyone. Starting off, you can get buy with just your [amazon-product region="us" text="multitool" type="text"]B000FIE4AE[/amazon-product] that you pack for the trails, but eventually you will scrape you knuckles one time too many on the short length and opt for something a little more user friendly. The [amazon-product region="us" text="Park Tool PH-1 P-Handled Hex Wrench Set" type="text"]B000RMRR02[/amazon-product] is a great set, with nice T-handles, that includes 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10mm sizes. However, this set is over $45, with better options out there. I like the [amazon-product region="us" text="Bondhus L-Wrench Double Pack" type="text"]B00012Y38W[/amazon-product] better and for under $15, you can’t beat it. Made in the USA, ball driver, kit including sizes 0.050, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8-Inch and 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm, and lifetime warranty . . . what’s not to like?

Next up is a good cable and housing cutter. Regular wire cutters will not make the clean cuts necessary for your pricey brake and derailleur cables and housing. Get the [amazon-product region="us" text="Park Tools cutter" type="text"]B002AJY2E4[/amazon-product] as it is worth every penny.

Finally, a pedal wrench may or may not be a need. Most pedals can be removed with an hex wrench, but some may require the use of a wrench so it might not be a bad idea to pick up a cheap one.

Other items to have with your basic tool set should include: [amazon-product region="us" text="grease" type="text"]B000WYANAG[/amazon-product], chain lube, zip ties, degreaser, rags, rubbing alcohol, and old toothbrushes.

In future articles, we will get into some of the more in-depth tool needs for your bike maintenance/repair jobs.

January 7th, 2010

Best Bike Chain Lube

Q: What is the best chain lube?

A: The best mountain bike chain lube is the one that you use on a consistent basis and the one you apply after you have a dry/clean chain, and preferably the lube you apply the night before. It is helpful if you get a lube that is conducive to your conditions you ride as well. With that said, the 2009 MTBR winners are Chain-L Lube and ProGold Prolink.

Chain-L Lube

Cost? $12.00 for 4 oz bottle or $4 for a 1 oz trial size

Chain-L is a chain lube that focuses on three things, lubrication, lubrication, lubrication. On a high-end bike, drivetrain wear is the most expensive maintenance cost per mile, so they believe that combating the chain bearing wear is the paramount goal.

Here is three snippets from reviewers at the MTBR review site.

Submitted by argnof

One of the best lubes on the planet, and the best I’ve tried so far. Noticeably better shifting over Rock n Roll extreme, quieter, and longer lasting.

Submitted by toothpuller

Imagine butter for a chain. Imagine a chain so buttery that when you pedal it you want to eat it because it feels so good underfoot. That is the best way to describe how my chain feels after one single application of the Chain-L product.

Submitted by Airhammer

I have found my chain runs much quieter. When you hear you chain running loudly that means you have metal running on metal which means your chain is wearing out much quicker in addition I lube less frequently.

ProGold Prolink

[amazon-product region="us" text="Cost? ProGold Prolink Chain Lube 4oz Squeeze is$6.99." type="text"]B000VT2HKQ[/amazon-product]

ProLink Chain Lube will not let dirt and grit stick to your chain – in wet or dry conditions. It greatly reduces friction and wear, allowing smoother operation of your chain and cables, and it will keep your chain and drive train area clean and seemingly drag free. ProLink is a thin-bodied lubricant that uses MFR technology, a molecule which bonds to the metal surface. It does not build up or become tacky because it contains no solids like Teflon, wax, moly, graphite or plastic.

Here is three snippets from reviewers at the MTBR review site.

Submitted by Coach Phil

As a Mechanic, Coach and former professional racer with over 30 years in the sports of cycling, I can say that Prolink is quite simply the best chain lube I have ever used. While I continue to “try” other chain lubes, I always return to Progold products.

Submitted by tag733

I purchased a ten-year-old bike that had noticeable chain and gear noise; it was never cleaned or lubed. Once I de-greased the chain and lubed with ProGold, the noises stopped, the shifting became smooth, and the bike is a joy to ride.

Submitted by Mike D

Using this lube will bring your chain back to life. Gears will shift smoothly and accurately. I find myself looking down to make sure it did shift because I won’t feel or hear anything as with other lubes. I also use it to lube my cables, it works great.

January 6th, 2010

5 Best Mountain Biking Books

Q: What are some of the “must have” mountain bike books?

A: There is at least five really good mountain bike books out there that should be on any serious mountain biker’s book shelf or Kindle.

#1 – Mastering Mountain Bike Skills by Brian Lopes and Lee McCormack

[amazon-product align="left" alink="19C6F5" bgcolor="ffffff" bordercolor="663300" height="240" region="us" width="120"]0736056246[/amazon-product]

Product Description:

Increase your speed, control, and versatility on the bike. Mastering Mountain Bike Skills provides detailed technical instruction for all mountain biking disciplines:

Cross-country
Downhill
Mountain cross
Free riding
Dirt jumping
Urban terrain

With top pro mountain biker Brian Lopes as your teacher, you’ll learn how to handle the bike better than ever, in any conditions, across all types of terrain. Key tips and special photo sequences throughout the book add insight to Lopes’ world-class instruction.

Comment:

If you only buy one book, make it this one. LOADED with many great riding tips. This book warrants space on everyone’s book shelf.

#2 – Park Tool BBB-2 The Big Blue Book of Repair by C. Calvin Jones

[amazon-product alink="19C6F5" bgcolor="ffffff" bordercolor="663300" height="240" region="us" width="120"]B001B6NAW2[/amazon-product]

Product Description:

Park BBB-2 Big Blue Book of Bike Repair- 2nd Edition-2008 Written by Park Tool Director of Education Calvin Jones with repair tips garnered from the author’s 30 years as an educator and mechanic. Big Blue just got bigger and better! Freshly updated to include new topics, latest technology, techniques and equipment. Packed with hundreds of photos and hundreds of procedures. From tire repair and derailleur adjustment to wheel truing and bottom bracket replacement. Special topics such as tool selection, bike cleaning, and on-the-trail repairs are also covered, and an appendix at the back of the book provides valuable reference materials the BBB-2 provides both the novice and veteran mechanic the information needed to perform nearly any repair from trailside repairs to complete overhauls. The Big Blue Book is the perfect reference guide and step-by-step repair manual for nearly any bike, including road, mountain, bmx, and single-speed. We wrote the book on bicycle repair.

Comments: Can’t even count the times this book has been a life saver. Keep it right by the bike rack/tool bench. You will use it.

#3 – The Mountain Biker’s Training Bible by Joe Friel

[amazon-product alink="19C6F5" bgcolor="ffffff" bordercolor="663300" height="240" region="us" width="120"]1884737714[/amazon-product]

Product Description:

Mountain biking presents unique challenges, and noted expert Joe Friel addresses them all in his latest book. Covering every aspect of training, he helps riders maximize their experience and minimize problems.

Comments:

Very in-depth book that will open your eye to the many legs of becoming a great rider. ROI for a book of this caliber is better than most bike part upgrades. Joe Friel is an expert endurance sports coach. He is best known as an elite triathlon and cycling coach. Friel has written ten books on training for endurance athletes. Much more than just a riding tips book, this book will progress your riding step-by-step.

#4 – Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance by Lennard Zinn and Todd Telander

[amazon-product alink="19C6F5" bgcolor="ffffff" bordercolor="663300" height="240" region="us" width="120"]193138259X[/amazon-product]

Product Description:
The most concise, well-organized, and clearly illustrated reference available, Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance gently guides the reader — regardless of mountain bike experience or mechanical prowess — through every aspect of maintenance, repair, and troubleshooting in a succinct and easy-to-read format and presents the latest technological advances and equipment in mountain bike components. Detailed diagrams and simple instructions explain everything from repairing a flat tire to building a wheel. The instructions are useful for anyone interested in mountain bikes, yet concise and complete enough to cover every state-of-the art technical concern facing today’s mountain biker. This timely revision offers updated information on shock pump adaptors, master links, V-brakes, cleat mounting and pedal overhaul, oversize handlebars, carbon steering tubes, tubeless rims, and much more. Repairs are rated for degree of difficulty while line drawings illustrate how parts fit together and show the tools needed to keep bikes in top shape and pedaling smoothly both on and off the trail.

Comments:
A more in-depth book than the Park book. This book delves into hub rebuilding to wheel building. Truly a great resource for any wrench or any rider just trying to get a better understanding of his/her bike.

#5 – The Art of Wheelbuilding: A Bench Reference for Neophytes, Pros & Wheelaholics by Gerd Schraner

[amazon-product alink="19C6F5" bgcolor="ffffff" bordercolor="663300" height="240" region="us" width="120"]0964983532[/amazon-product]

Product Description:
One of the most well known wheel building books on the market.

Comments:
Interested in wheel building? Get this book. Planning on sitting down and actually building your first wheel(s)? Then get Roger Musson’s book as well.

December 31st, 2009

10 New Year’s Resolutions for Mountain Biker’s

As we fast approach the New Year, it is time to consider what our biking New Year’s Resolutions can be. Following is a list of 10 possible goals to add to your resolution list.

1. Try/ride/buy your first 29er. I have been there. I was a snobby FS 26″ rider before, swearing I wouldn’t be “trendy” with the sure to pass fad of 29ers . . . . until I rode one. Now I own two, and love them. Give it a try. It might not be for you, but it just might be.

2. Go single speed. Simple. Maintenance-free. Great training. Can start with a conversion. What’s not to like?

3. Enter your first 24 Hr Race.

4. Give road riding a try. Blasphemy you say? You don’t have to be all carboned and lycra’d up to keep your legs loose on those wet trail days. A cheap $250 single speed road bike off of Craigs will serve you well and will be a nice change of pace.

5. Volunteer for some trail maintenance and/or trail building. It never hurts to give back and make you appreciate the trails we are all fortunate enough to have.

6. Do a bike repair that you would normally take to the shop. The money you save you can take the wife to dinner to butter her up for for that new bike build you are dreaming about. Don’t forget the Power Point.

7. Go tubeless, you will never look back and just might become a brew master.

8. Make a tool for headset install/removal or other need. A quick Google search will find many simple and effective tools to make for cheap. Stay tuned to this site, as we will be showcasing a few.

9. Ride you bike to work at least once. There are many stipulations you can play with on this one to make it interesting, like doing it in the winter.

10. If the 24 Hr Race was too much for ya, then how about entering a local beginner race. You might just be surprised as how well you do, but no matter what, you will have fun.

If New Year’s Resolutions aren’t your thing, than at least make a promise to yourself that yourself that you will try and get out and ride more.

Be safe, and have a happy New Year.

December 24th, 2009

Solving the Seatpost to Seat Connection

Q: What clamp design is best for my saddle needs and how tight should I torque everything?

A: The connection of the seat to the seatpost is one of the most overlooked areas on the bike. Saddle makers use everything from steel to carbon on their rails, and post makers all use different clamp mechanisms. The good news is most seatpost clamps are designed to work with the standard seven-millimeter seat rails or the oversized eight-millimeter rails, which is good since there isn’t any set industry standard. So basically seat selection comes down to comfort, price, and weight.

As for torque, it all depends on the material used and every manufacturer has their own spec. If carbon, you better seek out this torque, but if it is a titanium or chromoly, then tightening enough so the seat won’t move (without over-tightening to the point where it is hard to get off) is the key. Nuts and bolts tend to tighten even further when under stress so some anti-seize or grease will go a long way on the hardware (never use on carbon).

As for clamp design, two bolt systems tend to be more stable than single-bolt systems and require less torque. If you buy quality parts, than slippage won’t be that big of a concern. However, if it is a cheap bike/parts, than investing $1-2 at the local hardware store for some higher quality hardware will serve you well.

December 24th, 2009

How To Clean Dirty Water Bottles

Q: How do you clean a dirty cycle water bottle?

A: So your water bottle is a little foul you say? Is goo, Gatorade, or mold interfering with your re-hydrating needs? Never fear, there is an easy solution. Fill your water bottle with hot water and add a denture-cleansing tablet. Let is soak overnight, and in the morning it will be like brand new again. Cheers.

December 24th, 2009

Stop Carbon Seatpost Slip

Q: How do you stop your carbon seatpost from slipping?

A: If you Google stop carbon seatpost slip, you will come with a few different options. One of them involves sanding the post down, so there is more friction and less chance of slipping. I’m not a big fan of defacing my expensive bike parts, so I chose to skip that one. Another suggestion was to change the seatpost clamp. I prefer to just torque my current one to the recommended torque, and look for another option.

I came across some 3M Super 77 Classic and used it not only for my seatpost slipping problem, but also to mount my grips on a new carbon handlebar. It works great! This 3M adhesive is a high tack, high coverage, and fast drying (about 15 sec, so move quickly) spray. I had some over-spray on my handlebar and it peeled right off. I have also used some Goo Gone to for the grip area over-spray, but don’t be foolish . . . . TEST it out on a safe area before you use. Materials vary, so your mileage may vary. Read the material safety sheet at 3Ms site if you are concerned. With that said, I have had great results, on three different bikes — much better results than hairspray.