A: You can set-up and adjust a rear derailleur on a mountain bike in five easy steps.

Step #1: Begin with the B screw adjustment.  Shift into the largest rear cog (innermost) and adjust so the guide pulley on the derailleur is just clearing the sprocket on the cassette.  If it is rubbing, add tension by turning the B screw clockwise.  If the gap is too big, turn the B screw counterclockwise to close the gap.

Step #2: Shift down to the outermost (smallest cog) on the cassette and it is time to adjust the H screw adjustment.  Be sure to remove any cable tension, as it can affect the H adjustment.  If the guide pulley looks like it wants to pull the chain off onto your axle, tighten the H screw clockwise.  If it looks like it wants to rub on the next gear, loosen the H screw counterclockwise.

Step #3: Shift back into the highest gear (innermost large cog) for the L screw adjustment.  You may need to add tension back to the cable at this point, but we will adjust cable tension later.  If the guide pulley looks like it is going push the chain into the spokes, tighten the L screw clockwise.  If it wants to throw the chain down into the next gear, loosen the L screw until it is aligned with the innermost cog.

Step #4: Cable adjustment time.  Loosen the pinch bolt, at the derailleur to free all tension from the cable.  Inspect the cable for any damage and lubricate the cable if necessary.  You can remove the cable, from the housing, and pull it through a rag with some degreaser on it.  Next, pull it through a rag of your favorite lube such as TriFlow.

***Quick tip: Instead of using a crimp, to close off the end of the cable, try using some shrink tube or Gorilla glue to seal up the end in case you need to remove it again.  This saves you from cutting off length every time you need to do cable maintenance.***

With the cable tension removed, turn in the cable tension adjustment knob all the way in and then back it out two turns.  Pull all the slack out of the cable, and reattach it to the pinch bolt and clamp it down 44-60 inch-lbs.

Step 5: Final tweaking.  Shift through all gears by going up two and down one and then down two and up one several times until the shifts are smooth and snappy.  Adjust, by 1/4 turns, cable tension of any missed gears.  If it is rubbing on a larger gear, it means there is too much tension on the cable and you need to loosen the cable by turning the adjuster clockwise.  If it wants to jump down to a smaller gear, it needs more tension and you need to tighten it by turning the adjuster counterclockwise.  Once smooth, apply a drop of lube to each adjuster screw and all pivot points of the derailleur.  Now go out for a ride and celebrate!

A: Velocity Blunt 29er  rims are an underrated rim, with a nice width at 28 mm, providing a nice “ballooning” tire for a plush ride.  However, many people have had some trouble converting these rims to tubeless.  Luckily, there is an easy solution that is pretty bombproof.

When first attempting to convert this wheelset to tubeless, I contacted Stan’s to find out what rim strip I should purchase to convert to tubeless as I had always used Stan’s before with previous wheels.  I also had a Stan’s 29er rim strip laying around, and realized it wouldn’t work without some “help.”  The response I got from Stan’s was to use their Freeride Rim Strip.  However, upon further research, I decided to go another direction and use the Bontrager strips instead.  Not only are the Bontrager valves better than the Stan’s, but the strips “snap” into place like they were made for the Velocity rims.  I was truly impressed.  Here is what you do:

1) Purchase the Bontrager 29er rim strips from Trek (don’t forget to add the valve stems) for $9.99 a strip and $4.99 a valve.

2) Attach the rim strip and valve to the rim.  When you “snap” these strips into place, they fit very snug, so be sure to line up the valve stem/hole before you snap them into place.

3) Next, get your tubeless solution ready to go rather it is a home brew, Stan’s, or Slime.  I personally use a 70% Stan’s, 30% Slime mixture.

4) If you have never done a tubeless conversion before, you should watch this video.  Even if you have, it is a nice refresher.  Repetition is the mother of skill.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=mA4nea1UT0w

5) Following is some tips that I have learned from doing numerous tubeless conversions and the tricks I used for this particular conversion.

• If possible, ride for a week on your tires with tubes to help stretch/form/shape the tires.
• Take very light sand paper or Scotch-Brite, and gently remove the shine that is around the bead of the tire that most new tires have.  This tip alone has made my life much easier on some tire/rim combinations.

• Remove the valve core when filling up the tire with air in this preferred order: air compressor, CO2, or hand pump.  I have used all three and all can be used, it just depends on your tire/rim combination and each individual tire and rim as no two are 100% identical.
• For stubborn to mount tires, use/buy a tire jack.  The [amazon-product region="us" text="Kool Stop Bead Jack" type="text"]B001AYML7K[/amazon-product] is the best $12 you will ever spend if you mount a lot of stubborn tires.  You can also use a hair dryer or throw the whole tire in the dryer to just make it a little more pliable and thus will prevent you from going Braveheart on your rim/tire.

I mounted a WTB WeirWolf on the front and it went on and sealed up very easily.  It was one of the easiest tubeless conversions I have ever done.  It holds air perfectly and loses maybe 2 psi a week.

The rear tire was a different story.  I mounted a Geax Saguaro TNT . . . . .well, I tried to mount one . . . . for three hours, specifically.  It was a typical case of small tire/big rim.  I broke three tire levers and finally had to take it to the LBS, where it took three burly dudes, and some metal downhill tire levers the size of my arm to jimmy the tire on.  Luckily there was no damage and it sealed right up and has held air as well as the front tire now.  I attribute it to the fantastic Bontrager strips that feel like they were made for the Velocity Blunt rims.  I really couldn’t be more happy with them.

Q: What is durometer and does tire compound matter when buying tires?

A: Durometer is the hardness of cured tire rubber.  Tire hardness impacts how well the tires grip, how stiff the knobs are in terms of flex they give, as well as how fast the tire rolls and how long it lasts.  Clearly tire impact is important and understanding it can help you the buying process.

How is tire compound determined?

Tire hardness is checked by using a Shore A Durometer named after maker Albert F. Shore.  The hardness is checked by a needle that penetrates the rubber and reads the hardness on the dial.  Mountain bike tire compounds generally range from 50-60 for all-mountain tires, 60-70 for XC tires, and 40-45 for downhill tires.  The harder 60-70 compound is referred to as a standard rubber hardness.

What you need to know about tire compounds

• Tires with softer rubber (40-55) puncture more easily but have better traction.  Softer rubber tires tend to have thicker casings though, and thus tend to be heavier.
• Dual-compound tires use a softer rubber on the sides, for better cornering, and a harder rubber rubber down the middle, for better durability, braking, and acceleration.
• Ignore people in the forums that complain of durability issues with racing tires.  Educated riders purchasing race tires with high-tech casing and compounds are after the greatest traction at the lowest weight.  There is no such thing as the lightest tire on the market, with the best traction, and the longest wearing.  You must choice your priorities when shopping for tires.

There are many other factors to equate into your tire buying decision, but tire compound should be one.  However, tread design, casing (TPI), tubes or tubeless, riding style, tire size, and riding location (types of trails) should also be considered when buying new tires.

A: There are basically three different types of bike owners, and therefore different tool needs based on of which type of owner you are.

1. Owners that do all of their own maintenance and repair “wrenches.”
2. Owners that take their bike to the LBS for all of their maintenance and repair needs.
3. Owners that do some work themselves, and take it to LBS for rest.

Before you get started, the first decision comes down to what to do with your bike while you are working on it.  You can simply turn it upside down (free), put it in a home made stand (inexpensive), or put it in a [amazon-product region="us" text="quality bike stand" type="text"]B000Z2ZZXK[/amazon-product] (investment).

On the tool front, there are basically two philosophies for buying tools.  You can buy a kit or buy your tools piece-by-piece.  For those that don’t want to be bothered, or are brand loyal, a kit is a good way to go.  Park Tools, the biggest name in bike tools, has an [amazon-product region="us" text="essential tool kit" type="text"]B000RPWFVK[/amazon-product] that will get you started with: 3, 4, 5, 6mm hex wrenches; tire levers; patch kit; straight blade screwdriver; and a small adjustable wrench all housed in a compact, ready-to-go tool wallet.  However, most people have screwdrivers and an adjustable wrench already, so buying your own kit is a smart choice.

The first few things to get are tire levers, hex wrenches, cable/housing cutter, chain tool, and maybe a pedal wrench.  As for tire levers, it is best not to over think them and to just buy them.  Of course you get better leverage with the longer ones, so that is something to consider, but I have known people to just use their skewer as a lever (good tip to remember for on the trails).

Hex wrenches are a must for everyone.  Starting off, you can get buy with just your [amazon-product region="us" text="multitool" type="text"]B000FIE4AE[/amazon-product] that you pack for the trails, but eventually you will scrape you knuckles one time too many on the short length and opt for something a little more user friendly.   The [amazon-product region="us" text="Park Tool PH-1 P-Handled Hex Wrench Set" type="text"]B000RMRR02[/amazon-product] is a great set, with nice T-handles, that includes 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10mm sizes. However, this set is over $45, with better options out there. I like the [amazon-product region="us" text="Bondhus L-Wrench Double Pack" type="text"]B00012Y38W[/amazon-product] better and for under $15, you can’t beat it. Made in the USA, ball driver, kit including sizes 0.050, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8-Inch and 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm, and lifetime warranty . . . what’s not to like?

Next up is a good cable and housing cutter.  Regular wire cutters will not make the clean cuts necessary for your pricey brake and derailleur cables and housing.  Get the [amazon-product region="us" text="Park Tools cutter" type="text"]B002AJY2E4[/amazon-product] as it is worth every penny.

Finally, a pedal wrench may or may not be a need.  Most pedals can be removed with an hex wrench, but some may require the use of a wrench so it might not be a bad idea to pick up a cheap one.

Other items to have with your basic tool set should include: [amazon-product region="us" text="grease" type="text"]B000WYANAG[/amazon-product], chain lube, zip ties, degreaser, rags, rubbing alcohol, and old toothbrushes.

In future articles, we will get into some of the more in-depth tool needs for your bike maintenance/repair jobs.

A: The best mountain bike chain lube is the one that you use on a consistent basis and the one you apply after you have a dry/clean chain, and preferably the lube you apply the night before.  It is helpful if you get a lube that is conducive to your conditions you ride as well.  With that said, the 2009 MTBR winners are Chain-L Lube and ProGold Prolink.

Chain-L Lube

Cost? $12.00 for 4 oz bottle or $4 for a 1 oz trial size

Chain-L is a chain lube that focuses on three things, lubrication, lubrication, lubrication.  On a high-end bike, drivetrain wear is the most expensive maintenance cost per mile, so they believe that combating the chain bearing wear is the paramount goal.

Here is three snippets from reviewers at the MTBR review site.

Submitted by argnof

One of the best lubes on the planet, and the best I’ve tried so far. Noticeably better shifting over Rock n Roll extreme, quieter, and longer lasting.

Submitted by toothpuller

Imagine butter for a chain. Imagine a chain so buttery that when you pedal it you want to eat it because it feels so good underfoot. That is the best way to describe how my chain feels after one single application of the Chain-L product.

Submitted by Airhammer

I have found my chain runs much quieter. When you hear you chain running loudly that means you have metal running on metal which means your chain is wearing out much quicker in addition I lube less frequently.

ProGold Prolink

[amazon-product region="us" text="Cost? ProGold Prolink Chain Lube 4oz Squeeze is$6.99." type="text"]B000VT2HKQ[/amazon-product]

ProLink Chain Lube will not let dirt and grit stick to your chain – in wet or dry conditions. It greatly reduces friction and wear, allowing smoother operation of your chain and cables, and it will keep your chain and drive train area clean and seemingly drag free. ProLink is a thin-bodied lubricant that uses MFR technology, a molecule which bonds to the metal surface. It does not build up or become tacky because it contains no solids like Teflon, wax, moly, graphite or plastic.

Here is three snippets from reviewers at the MTBR review site.

Submitted by Coach Phil

As a Mechanic, Coach and former professional racer with over 30 years in the sports of cycling, I can say that Prolink is quite simply the best chain lube I have ever used. While I continue to “try” other chain lubes, I always return to Progold products.

Submitted by tag733

I purchased a ten-year-old bike that had noticeable chain and gear noise; it was never cleaned or lubed. Once I de-greased the chain and lubed with ProGold, the noises stopped, the shifting became smooth, and the bike is a joy to ride.

Submitted by Mike D

Using this lube will bring your chain back to life. Gears will shift smoothly and accurately. I find myself looking down to make sure it did shift because I won’t feel or hear anything as with other lubes. I also use it to lube my cables, it works great.