Mountain bike disc brake noise can be really annoying.  Luckily, it isn’t that hard to fix with just a few basic steps.

Find the Problem

The first step is to get a spray bottle of just plain water.  Spray the water on the rotors, without getting any on the caliper/pads, and then ride it down the street and test the brakes.  Did the noise go away?  If it did, you most likely have an issue (contamination) with the pads/rotors or some glaze build-up.  Disassemble the brakes, take some really fine-grit sandpaper, and do figure eights on a flat surface.  You just want to rough up the pads a little, and clean any buildup on them.  Next, get some brake cleaner, from the auto parts store (read the label to ensure it is OK for brake pads) and clean your rotors and spray the pads with the cleaner.  Now I KNOW there is at least one person who will read this that will swear up and down that all kinds of bad stuff will happen and you may even go to hell for trying such a wicked and forbidden act, but I assure you I have done this on at least six occasions with great results every time.  Your call.  I know rubbing alcohol gets the nod most of the time, but it simply doesn’t work as good in my experience (if at all).  You may have to lightly sand your rotors, as well, if you suspect glazing.  I personally never have had to sand rotors, but I know many people do.

Water Didn’t Work

You say that when you sprayed the rotors with water, it still squealed?  Very common.  Most people start replacing parts at this point, but there is an easier solution.  Take the pads off, and clean the pistons inside of the calipers, with a lint-free cloth moistened with that brake cleaner previously mentioned, and then clean the back of the pads as well.  Most likely the noise is coming from where the pads contact the pistons.

I personally skip the second part of the above paragraph.  Instead, I clean the pistons (as mentioned) and then sand off all of the paint on the back of the pads and take it down to the bare copper (or whatever).  I then use a metal cleaner, such as Brasso, and I polish the pads.  I had a really stubborn pair of pads, on my Formula Oro brakes, that this worked like a charm on.  In an extreme case, you can put the thinnest layer of anti-brake squeal (from cars) on the back of the pads or even grease.  I am talking THIN, and apply it with a razor blade.  Anyone that has ever installed a CPU on a computer build will know exactly what I am talking about.  Good luck!

A: Shipping a bike can be a pain, which is why many people choose to have their LBS ship it for them.  However, having your LBS ship your bike for you can be a bigger problem and hassle than just doing it yourself, not to mention a more cost effective solution.  And you don’t have to risk negative eBay feedback from anxious buyers and slow bike shops.  Plus you can add a picture of the bike all securely packaged to your eBay listing for added value and ultimately a higher selling price.

The first step is acquiring a box.  You have two choices for this task.

1) Go to your LBS and ask them for a box as they usually have a stack from the bikes they order.  This is a free solution, but also involves hoping it fits your bike, resealing where they cut it open, and marking over the shipping labels and/or peeling them off.  Kind of a pain, but it is free.

2) Order a bike box from Uline or this one.  Sure, you have to order five or more, but they ship it right to your door and you can probably sell the others on Craigslist, use them for other bikes/moving, or start a small biz on the side shipping bikes for people to earn extra money for bike parts.

Next you need packing materials.  The frame and fork are the most important parts, so protecting them is vital.  A good, cheap solution is to use the foam that you wrap around plumbing pipes.  You can pick it up at any home improvement store and it comes in self-sealing or you can use a roll of duct tape (that you got from the dollar store) to secure it to each tube on the bike.

From there, it is simply a question of wrapping everything else you disassembled in some bubble wrap and placing it in the box and securing it with some tape.

As for shipping, it really depends on where you are shipping from and the destination.  Shipping stores are a great solution, as they will do a cost analysis for you and give you the best rate.  The alternative is to visit UPS and FEDEX’s sites for quotes and to arrange a pick-up.

Hypothetical Situation

You charge $80 for shipping on your complete bike listing on eBay and sell it.  You buy five bike boxes from Uline for $30.  $10 for foam, bubble wrap, and tape.  $30 shipping via UPS.  Total cost = $70.  You are up $10 to apply toward your seller fees on eBay.  Extra credit you say?  You sell your remaining four boxes on Craigslist, for $5 each for another $20.  Not bad.

A: What you pack for a ride depends on how long/far you will be going.  What you will need to go around the block will differ from an all day ride.  Following is a list of 15 items to consider before your next ride.

1. Water: This determines your “luggage” for the ride (Camelback or water bottle).
2. Flat repair: Patch kit for tubes, a patch for a ripped tire (a dollar bill can be used in a pinch), tire levers (2), a spare tube (keep in a sock to use as a rag and/or to drag across tubes for finding thorns), and a pump (hand or CO2).
3. Multitool
4. ID: driver’s license, insurance card and/or your sports id.
5. Mini kit: using an Altoids tin or an empty supplement/pill bottle (much better than a bag), fill it with the following items: SRAM master link (or two), spare chain (leftover from your sizing), super glue, spare shoe cleat screw (in a pinch a brake rotor bolt can be used if you have a torx with you), presta valve stem core, nut & cap.
6. Rubber gloves.  Nothing like working on a greasy chain and then sticking your hands back into your high-dollar gloves.  Some people prefer wipes (also work well for cleaning before patching a tube), or both.
7. Zip ties (all sizes)
8. Electrical tape and/or duct tape (MacGuyver would be so proud).  Duct tape can also be used in a pinch for a tire repair.
9. Pen and paper
10. Headlamp: Frees your hands and can also be used as an emergency backup light.
11. Cell phone
12. First Aid/Emergency Kit
13. Money
14. Insect repellent (during the bug months).
15. Swiss Army Knife

A: So your water bottle is a little foul you say?  Is goo, Gatorade, or mold interfering with your re-hydrating needs?  Never fear, there is an easy solution.  Fill your water bottle with hot water and add a denture-cleansing tablet.  Let is soak overnight, and in the morning it will be like brand new again. Cheers.

A: If you Google stop carbon seatpost slip, you will come with a few different options.  One of them involves sanding the post down, so there is more friction and less chance of slipping.  I’m not a big fan of defacing my expensive bike parts, so I chose to skip that one.  Another suggestion was to change the seatpost clamp.  I prefer to just torque my current one to the recommended torque, and look for another option.

I came across some 3M Super 77 Classic and used it not only for my seatpost slipping problem, but also to mount my grips on a new carbon handlebar.  It works great!  This 3M adhesive is a high tack, high coverage, and fast drying (about 15 sec, so move quickly) spray.  I had some over-spray on my handlebar and it peeled right off.  I have also used some Goo Gone to for the grip area over-spray, but don’t be foolish . . . . TEST it out on a safe area before you use.  Materials vary, so your mileage may vary.  Read the material safety sheet at 3Ms site if you are concerned.  With that said, I have had great results, on three different bikes — much better results than hairspray.